Master Chef Farman Ali On Lost Recipes From Pre-Partition India - Times Now
Master Chef Farman Ali and Khoti Bazaar Ka Soya Chaap
Master Chef Farman Ali, also known as 'The Last of Great Chefs', has curated the menu of Falak, a fine dining Indian restaurant at The Leela Bhartiya City, Bengaluru. The menu here isn't just about good food—it's a time machine that takes to back to the culinary culture from the pre-partition days along with lesser-known dishes from the North-West frontier of India, especially Amritsar, Old Delhi, and Awadh.
In a conversation with Times Now Digital, Chef Farman talks about the food, history, and all things delish! "Falak carries the legacy of an authentic fine dining experience, offering recipes that have been preserved and re-invented over the years, and that were once created in an era of indigenous spices and traditional cooking methods. From Awadhi to Northwest Frontier fare, our chefs have prepared a palette to cater to every true aficionado of fine Indian cuisine," says Chef Farman.
The restaurant's menu concept draws its inspiration from the pre-partition Punjabi Cuisine, Old Delhi, Kashmir, Rajasthan and Awadh. To ensure the authenticity of these recipes, hakims (traditional restaurant owners and caterers) play a crucial role. "The authentic flavours that you get to taste at Falak are explored through the hakims of the places. Our chefs through their regular visits to these places, tend to learn from hakims and by spending time with them. Through frequent visits and immersive sessions with hakims, our chefs gain insight into traditional recipes. Noteworthy dishes, such as Koyla Atta Chicken from Faridkot (now in Pakistan) and the famed Khoti Bazaar Ka Soya Chaap, a street food delight, showcase the diverse and vibrant culinary journey captured in Falak's menu."
Various traditional cooking methods such as Dum Pukht, Dhungar, and Gil-e-Hikmat are used in preparing these dishes. The term Dum refers to breathing, while Pukht means cooking. This approach involves sealing ingredients in a handi (a pot) covered with a lid and secured with flour dough, ensuring the retention of moisture. By harnessing the food's steam, flavours and aromas are retained, along with their nutritional value. Awadhi Gosht Biryani is cooked using this technique. Dhungar is a unique smoking method that imparts a smoky essence of various spices to dishes, infusing them with a subtle aroma. Shahi Gosht Nihari is prepared using this Dhungar technique.
Gil-e-Hikmat draws from Persian influences in Awadhi Cuisine. In Persian (present-day Iran), Gil denotes earth or mud, while Hikmat involves the process of the hakims. Meats prepared using this method are typically whole, stuffed with nuts and spices, wrapped in cloth, and meticulously sealed. A pit is dug in the earth, about 4-6 inches deep in the soil, which is filled with burning coal. The meat is lowered into it and covered with the mud. It is slowly cooked for 6-8 hours.
Most dishes curated for the menu have an anecdote or history behind it. Chef Farman reveals that Daadi jaan ka Murgh korma which is on Falak’s menu is closest to his heart. "I got to learn it from my grandmother which is liked and appreciated by every single person who had it," he says. Chef Farman gives interesting nuggets about the origins of Nihari. He says, "Nihari, a culinary gem originating in the 18th century, finds its roots in the Arabic word "Nahar," meaning morning. This delectable stew, cherished by Muslims, is traditionally savoured after the Fajr morning prayer. It boasts slow-cooked meats immersed in a rich bone marrow gravy, creating a harmonious and flavourful dish that has stood the test of time, becoming an integral part of morning rituals for many. Another interesting story is when Shahjahan commissioned a canal to protect his soldiers. When labourers fell ill, he ingeniously ordered the creation of a dish called Nihari—crafted from meat and spiced with chillies. Prepared by hakims, this savoury dish worked as a remedy. The miraculous Nihari not only revived the ailing workers but became a culinary legend, providing nourishment and healing to the entire force."
Recipe for Shahi Nalli Nihari by Chef Farman Ali
Ingredients
Lamb Shank: 1 kg
Mustard Oil/Ghee: 120gm
Onion (Sliced): 300 gm
Cinnamon stick: 2 gm
Green cardamom: 5 gm
Black cardamom: 2 gm
Clove: 1 gm
Bay leaf: 1 gm
Shan Nihari masala: 60 gm
Ginger garlic paste: 100 gm
Coriander powder: 25 gm
Turmeric powder: 10 gm
Garam masala powder: 8 gm
Salt: 15 gm
Kashmiri red chilli: 10 gm
Mace powder: 5 gm
Ginger garlic paste: 70 gm
Atta (wheat flour): 60 gm
Yellow chilli: 8 gm
Nutmeg powder: 5 gm
Ingredients for Potli masala aka Nihari Masala
Ingredient Quantity
Khas ki jad: 1 gm
Pan ki jad: 1 gm
Rose petals dry: 1 gm
Whole Coriander: 1 gm
Green cardamom: 2 gm
Black cardamom: 1 gm
Clove: 1 gm
Saunf: 2 gm
Cooking Procedure
1. Prepare the Base : Heat oil or ghee in a pot. Add the sliced onion and fry until golden brown. Remove and set aside.
2. Cook the Masala: Add the whole spices to the hot oil in the pot. Once fragrant, add the ginger-garlic paste and sauté until aromatic. Stir in all the spice powders (except garam masala, mace, and nutmeg) and cook for a minute. Add the blended onion paste and mix well. Pour in the curd and mix thoroughly.
3. Simmer the lamb: Add the lamb pieces to the pot and stir to coat them in the masala. Add a little water (just enough to cover the bottom of the pot) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the lamb is almost tender.
4. Thicken the Sauce: Make a smooth paste with the atta and a little water. Add the atta paste to the pot and stir well. This will help thicken the sauce. Stir in the fried onions for added flavour and texture.
5. Finish and Serve: Check the tenderness of lamb. If required, add a little more water and cook for a few minutes until tender. Finally, stir in the garam masala, mace, and nutmeg powder. Taste and adjust seasonings if needed.
6. Garnish with chopped green chillies, ginger julienne, lemon wedges, and chopped coriander. Serve hot with fried onions.
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